Paris Disney - Sunday 29 April

I think Disney has lost its magic with me. Maybe a bit unfortunate, but such is life. Words and phrases I can use to best describe Paris Disney parks - cheese factor, All - American, sterile, crowded and good for families with small children, but not for 34 year old single women. Got up at about 6:30am this this morning to make my way down to the bus depot that was conducting the day tour by 7:45am. Traffic into town was easy and didn't take too long to get there and it is quite easy to get there. Vry drizzly day in Paris - its been unusually wet and cold for this time of year and i dont think in the whole time I've been in France, I've had a day above 15 degrees and without any rain. Dozed most of the way (as well as most of the other passengers) to the park. Got there just before 9:00am and had to walk quite a fair way to the entrance in the pouring rain - I had a 2 park pass, so I could go to both the main park and also Walt Disney Studios. Got to the entrance about 9:10am and had to wait in a massive queue for about over half an hour until the park opened. As was walking along towards the entrance (there we also some travellators, which made things easier, could hear all the familiar tunes to all the Disney songs coming over the PA. throughout the whole park, the music didn't ease up either! After entering the park, walked into Main Street, which is a recreation of an American main street in the eyes of Walt Disney. Most of it was kitschy types of shops that sold 'old fashioned sodas', newspapers, photo outlets and some food. Most of it, on the other hand were merchandise shops. Got something small to eat for breakfast - yoghurt, fruit salad and a coffee and had to stand in the pouring rain as there was limited indoor seating where I bought my food. Walked up to Fanatsy Land and went onto 'Its a small world'. I know it's cheesy, but still can't go to Disneyland without going on the badge and experiencing that. All day, since, I've had that tune stuck in my head. The ride wasn't too bad. Then went to the Mad Hatter's Tea Cups and had a bit of a go on that. Next place was, really the only place in the whole park I wanted to see, which was the Alice in Wonderland maze. Unfortunately, either because it's Sunday in France (where most people don't work, so they may not have had the staff) or because of the wet conditions, the maze was closed - very disappointing. Caught the train around the park and did one full circuit. Stopped off at the Discoverland, where I had the worst meal I have eaten in Europe during my entire holiday in Buzz Lightyear's Rocket Pizza. It was a pizza, salad and dessert all you can eat buffet; but I couldn't even eat a full slice of pizza, let alone the salad or dessert. Went to go on Space Mountain, but the queues were massive, so opted out and walked around doing a little bit of shopping. I didn't end up on going anymore rides in Disneyland, just tried to dodge the masses of crowds with small children (sorry, I had to say that!). After about 3 hours in Disneyland, most of which was shopping - most shops have the same things, but there are some differences and daily specials very between each store - I walked across to Walt Disney Studios. A little more to my liking as they had cinematic experiences, where one of the staff over dramatised his explanation of how animation characters are created alongside the dragon from Mulan. Walked around a lot more, saw the Monsters Inc *small* display (I like Pixar animation and Monsters Inc would have to be my favourite) and then, because, I was so hungry because I didn't really eat anything at lunch, grabbed another buffet; which wasn't too bad, but I still left three quarters of it on my plate. The best part of the meal was the wine I got with it! Lol! By then it was after 3:30pm and I was over the whole thing. I wasn't due to leave the two parks until 7:15pm this evening; but I jumped on the train and got back into Paris upon my own volition. Made it back, wet, cold, hungry and unhappy to my hotel in Montparnasse around 5:00pm. I knew that if I wasn't on time at the bus collection point, it would have let without me anyway, so I wasn't too greatly worried about leaving early. Had a quick shower and went downstairs to collect my laundry from the hotel laundry service (I handed it in last night), only to find that they haven't returned the laundry as it is Sunday and the laundry service is closed! Still without any clothes since finishing up my first tour and am now down to a pair of cargo pants. Have heaps of underwear and tops, but I need some jeans! :/

Lazy days - Friday 27 & Saturday 28 April

Spent most of Friday recovering from the night before. Got up around 7:30am to go downstairs for breakfast and say goodbye to a few people I didn't see the previous night. Spent more of the day in bed; snoozing, reading or watching tv. Told the room service maids that they didn't need to clean the room at around 1:30pm. Got up and changed at 3:00 and made my way around Montparnasse and did a little bit of shopping - some more Chanel body oild and hair spritz; as mentioned, I can't get them in Australia and often have to order the hair spritz from Strawberry.net when it's available. New Chanel lipstick I've had my eye on also and some more scarves from Monoprix - sort of like an upmarket version of Kmart - that I can wear over the next few weeks. Went back to the hotel, dozed on and off from about 5:00 until 6:30pm; when I thought I had betters get something to eat as I hadn't eaten since breakfast in the morning. All week I had been dying to be in jeans, runners and shirts but, i dressed up, (more so than normal as I felt I needed to be after being in the pouring rain, wind and mud for 8 or 9 days, I am surprised that I am not sick with the cold or flu!) and bumped into Will, the Historian from the tour. We went out for dinner down the road, where one the waiters remembered me from when I tried to order my food in French last week and, at the time, was extremely helpful. So I was surprised that he did remember me well after a week of travelling outside Paris. Got back to the hotel about 9:00pm and flaked out on the bed; exhausted from the tour ;) Saturday (today) was spent moving hotels, organising my laundry (I have no jeans left and haven't had a pair for several days and have had to wear a pair of black work slacks. No comfy shirts either and had to wear a work blouse for most of the day. As my room wasn't ready at the new hotel, I ended up walking around the circuit at the top of the avenue where I am staying and bought a woollen top and woollen cardigan. The woman in the shop was quite helpful, particularly as I am a larger person, clothes shopping in Paris was a bit of a daunting prospect - I am already one for not doing clothes shopping at the best of times and usually loathe it! Made several phone calls to people back in Australia - I am not homesick at the moment, but I do miss some freinds' voices and had a nice lunch of jambon and melon and a salad of tomato and mozzarella. Went to another restaurant for dinner. This time, the one I first went to when I first arrived in Paris. The waiter there also remembered me and shook my hand to say hello and asked me about what I had been doing over the past 2 weeks. Tried my very basic French on him again, he complimented my on my "beautiful pronunciation of French" (what is it with French men? Lol!) and then walked off back to the new hotel, where I've spent most of the evening. Spent the rest of the day either cleaning shrapnel from Polygon Wood - coca-cola does do wonders - as it was the first time since being in Europe I knew that I was somewhere stable and long enough to do it. I also spent a lot of time (quite a fair few hours) updating my travel blog, as I have had some troubles over the past few days with Google Blogger and being timed out from my hotel wi-fi connection. Must get going to bed now, as I have to be up very early in the morning as i will be off to Euro Disney for the day. I have to be at Rue Pyramides by 7:45am in the morning!

Guedecourt, Thiepval, Villers Bretonneux, Paris - Thursday 26 April

Last day of the tour! Left the hotel in Amiens and made our way several battle sites and memorials, most notable the Canadian memorial at Guedecourt and also the imposing Commonwealth memorial at Thiepval. Bought up big on books for my personal library at Thiepval and now somehow need to get them back to Australia. Went back to Villers Bretonneux. This time went to the Victoria School - another place on my bucket list of places I had wanted to go to. I knew quite a fair bit about the school and it's construction from all my readings over the years of the battles within the area and the reconstruction period. Victoria schoolchildren collected and donated money to help rebuild the school after WWI. In the middle of the schoolyard is the famous sign 'Do not forget Australia'. Had a peek into the classrooms - for some reason school wasn't on that day - and saw the maps on the walls of Australia and also how they teach the Victorian cursive writing. On some of the shelves were Australian Rules footballs and saw 'Syd, Molly and Dickhead' (for those who watched Roy and HG's 'The Dream' during the Sydney Olympics lol!). In the main hall are pictures of Melbourne and Sydney and other scenery. Also, the sign 'Gallipoli' about Peace & Prosperity (Victoria's Coat of Arms). A bit of Australian jingoism happening and being perpetuated by Australian visitors that give gifts to the school, but still something that stirred a bit of nationalistic pride within myself. Went upstairs to the history museum and had a bit of a look around. Photos of soldiers in battle - some of them quite graphic, showing war dead; embroidered handkerchiefs that were sent home to love ones as momentos and citations and letters home to families explaining how their son/husband/uncle/brother had been killed in action. Downstairs again and a bloody last on the bus again, as I was taking quite a few pictures of the school from the outside. Old habits of being the last on and counting children as they get on die hard lol! Quick traverse to the Adelaide Cemetery just outside the village, where we had a finally wander around some gravestones. Will burned some eucalyptus leaves just outside the cemetery as a bit of a lasting impression. He had mentioned that Australian soliders were sometimes sent eucalyptus leaves from home and either crushed them for the smell, or burned them over campfires, to remind them of home. I am fairly certain that I have read it also somewhere, but didn't tell him as I couldn't remember, as I could have been getting mixed up with what the British soliders did over their campfires. Always love the smell of eucalyptus and it was a moving tribute. Back to the National Monument, where we had spent the previous day early in the morning. They were still cleaning up and dismantling (most of it had been done) from the Dawn Service. Just had enough time, to walk up to the top of the tower, which was luckily open (as it is usually closed) and saw the direction dial and looked out over the Somme region. The rain came bitingly down hard and was stinging and it became quite windy. Loved the view, but was sopping wet and went back down to the entrance to the memorial; where we had a tot of rum as a tribute to the soliders and a group photo. Made our way back to Paris. I dozed on and off with my headphones on, apparently, quite loud; whilst everyone else watched 'Beneath Hill 60'. We were stuck in peak hour traffic along the peripherique just outside Paris and didn't make it back to the hotel until well past 5:15pm; as we were meant to be on another bus to go on our Seine river cruise. I had enough time to check in, have a quick shower (as i was still very wet from Villers Bretonneux and had been sitting in wet clothes for several hours) and made my way downstairs in enough time to spare. The cruise was nice, the wine was even nicer as it went down quite well! Had some photos taken on the upper deck of Parisian sights - including the Eiffel Tower and the mini Statue of Liberty. Sang some songs and there were somew speeches made. Back onto the coach and back to the hotel, where a large group from our bus went to the Jazz Club down the road, found it too expensive (I paid €20 for a Gin & Tonic and a beer!) and we went back to the hotel bar and were there for quite a while. Was quite drunk and went back to the hotel room and - apart from one night terror - its been months since I last had one - slept reasonably. End of a very memorable tour! :)

ANZAC Day - Wednesday 25 April

I am a little pissed off at the moment with both all my hotel connections and also Google Blogger. This is the third or fourth time I have tried to write this post over the past few days and each time, I suppose because it takes a little while to type on the iPad compared with a laptop, I am logged out either by my Internet connection or by google blogger itself. I have tried several times to save my progress, which it does; however, I seem to be unable to find my draft after I am logged out. So, apologies to those who have been checking up on progress of my blog; and haven't found anything there, but that is the reason why I have been trying to update all my days so far today. I had recently finished my ANZAC Day post, which was a really long one, when I found I had been logged out by the hotel. I have to rely now on my memory and the heaps of photos I had taken on the day at various points to jog my memory. Woke up at an ungodly hour by the alarm clock and also by the hotel where we were staying in Amiens at 3:00am. Usually on an ANZAC Day I either stay up all night and not go to bed or get up at 4:30am and catch a taxi so I can be at the Shrine of Remeberance in time for the Dawn Service. 3:00 am was a little bit of an awakening for me, but I was ok for most of the day. I was surprised though that the hotel where where we were staying started to provide breakfast from about 1:30am onwards. I suppose with the amount of people staying at the hotel, aside from the 50 on our tour bus, that were attending the Dawn Service at Villers Bretonneux, must have warranted in doing so. Got onto the bus at 4:00am and it was a 20km drive to the National Monument in Villers Bretonnuex. Walked along the lit pathways to the top of the hill where the monument is and it is a rather imposing structure. Was able to get a seat close to the front, but I couldn't really see too much. I could see the bugler at the top of the tower play the Last post, but couldn't really see any of the people making speeches unless i tilted my head from side to side all the time. The big screens off to the side were useful. I must admit I became a little unfocused when one of the dignitaries gave his speech totally in French - I got the gist of it here and there with the very basic French I have; but I think the cold got the better of me. I ended up weariong my Copperfield winter rugby top - which was surprisingly warm and heavy - my polar fleece and waterproof rain jacket. Also had a scarf I had purchased in Paris - I can't find any woollen scarves here at all and had to do with fashion type things - also had some possum gloves and also, as I had forgotten to pack my beanie, I wore the tour cap which did the job for the morning; but will post home. Usually, I tear up with ANZAC Day services - more so the marches than the services themselves - this was quite emotional, but no tears this time; but still very happy to be there. Sng a few hymns - I've never been religious and haven't attended church services (apart from weddings and funerals) since the age of 11, when I had the option of choosing competitive tennis or church;) but I surprised myself on somehow knowing the words to the Hymn 'Guide Me Know O Great Redeemer' and of course, knew the words to both verses of 'Advance Australia Fair'. The service concluded at around 7:00am and had just enough time to go up the front and listen to the school band play (they were really good) and also listen to Warren Snowden - Minister for Veterans' Affairs and member for NT give an interview for a television station. By the time after walking through all the crowds to get back to our meeting spot; or half an hour was already up. I knew that we were coming back to the Monument on Thursday, so didn't worry too much about going up to the top of the tower and looking at all the graves. Went to Le Hamel, where the MAor, his Deputy and the local townspeople gave the 3 tour buses a really good breakfast of bread, cheese and salami, fruit, croissants and other pastries and some decent coffee. Speeches were made by several people including the History teacher from Dubbo again, the Mayor of Ipswich and Will Davies. We then moved off to march up to the French monument at the top of the hill in the Village, laid some flowers and sang Le Marsailles. Then onto the Australian memorial quite a fair hike up (were in buses this time) and the Mayor chose me, alongside a schoolgirls and the Deputy to lay a potted wreath at the base of the memorial. I must admit that I probably spent too much time wandering around the recovered German trenches and taking snaps of the hillside - I was intending on putting these onto transparencies and placing arrows of direction of troop movements, but after looking at my photos afterwards, I don't think that the quality of shots is there. Could hear over the microphone - we all had headsets - that people were making a few few funny comments "Caroline's late again" and our Historian, Will, telling me to move on. Got the clP from the whole bus again, as I tried to sneakily get on board from the second half of the bus lol! Saw the Third Division memorial and also Dernancourt cemetery. Then it was off to Pozieres where we stopped, very briefly at the cemetery there. It was the only 2nd highly walled cemetery I had seen on the tour so far - Tyne Cot being partially high walled, was the other. Onto lunch in Pozieres at Tommy's and had a long look at the recreation of the German trench in the back yard of the pub. Shells were piled high and many artefacts from WWI were there. picked up some pellets to take back to work from the bar area. Went off to Courcelette cemetery, where proof lay in the fact that Commonwealth War Graves Commission do do their work. This was the first time we had seen anyone over the past week doing any maintenance on the grave sites. They were doing some mowing and reengraving of some of the headstones. I have been impressed with the fact that all the cemeteries we've visited, they've been immaculate. Back to Pozieres and to one of the sites I had most wanted to visit on the trip; which was the site of the battle for the windmill. There was more Australian blood spilled at the windmill site than almost anywhere else in Australia's involvement on the Western Front and it is considered to be, by some historians, to be Australian soil. After Pozieres, want just outside of the town and looked at the First Division monument and Rock of Gibraltar. Then we were off to Mouquet Farm, one of the places I had studied extensively in one of my Australian War units at university. It was great to see the site of the quarry and also where the farmhouse was located (it is located in a slightly different location now). Am starting to put imagery into my mind of places I've studied, but had never seen apart from prints and lithographs. Last stop was Lochnager Mine - one of the biggest craters from WWI. Much bigger than Hill 60 and Caterpiller Mine. Stopped there very briefly, and bought some more pellets from a vendor off the side of the road who was a relic hunter. Got back to Amiens at about 4:30pm, totally whacked and craving sleep. Went to bed by 5:00pm and was up again at 8:30pm; where I toured the town, asking heaps of locals where I could buy a packet of cigarettes (again, you were right David Dangerfield about my starting smoking in Europe). Finally was directed to alongside the train line, a very seedy area; where I went into several dodgy bars and finally found a place that had a whole heap of men sitting around watching the football. Got back to the hotel, craving food and got a small buffet meal. Met up with a couple of the blokes from the your and had some drinks (am drinking gins / gin & tonics quite a fair bit lately) and was in bed by about 11:00pm. A very long, but memorable day! :)

Messine, Armentieres, Fromelles, Pozieres, Amiens - Tuesday 24 April

Had to get up early, we had to leave Ypres to make our way through to the Somme area. The Somme being a district of several lakes and the river flowing through the area. First stop was Messine, where when we were looking at the monument for when there was an impromptu soccer match, out of the corner in a barn, there was a man standing 1st AIF uniform. Thought at first, it was a mannequin, but when it moved and started eating out of a mess tin it was a little strange. The bloke came downstairs to chat with the group, and he said that him and a group of mates were re-enactors that had come across to experience ANZAC Day on the Western Front. He explained his uniform - that he was an Australian solider, from a Tasmanian regiment, and had been wounded (one vertical stripe on his left sleeve). The arrows on the other sleeve denoted years of service he had completed. The only thing missing was the 'A' on his regiment badge to show that he had been an ANZAC at Gallipoli. The other bloke with him was portraying a British solider and he explained his uniform in similar detail. Went further around Messine and had a look at that the New Sealand monument; interesting, but plinths and obelisks are becoming a little confusing in my mind, as after a while, though they denote different battalions or regiments, they are starting to look the same. The only difference, so far, being the 2nd battalion monument at Mont St Quentin, where that was a statue of an Australian solider. All day, I had the tune to that song, Madamosielle from Armentieres, parlez-vous? and several different verses to that. A bit annoying as I know quite a few verses to it and it was constantly playing through my head. We stopped briefly in Armentieres, as our driver had to have a short break from driving. We didn't get off the coach, but we're alongside a food van (which was closed), with a Betty Boo picture on it. I thought it was quite fitting that what was going through my mind at the moment, was aptly displayed on a food van. Stopped off at another cemetery, whilst one of the people on the tour went to visit a specific grave; whilst we were waiting, I spied a big grey moggy happily walking along the graves without any worry lol! Next stop was Fromelles (Pheasant Woods), where there was the recent discovery (well a few years ago now), of the mass grave of Australian soldiers in Pheasant Wood, by Lambas Englezos - a History teacher from Melbourne. Some of the soldiers have been able to be identified through DNA testing and later this year, there is going to be a commemoration service in Fromelles Cemetery for them and being laide to rest with the right identity. It is thought that there a more soldiers buried in mass graves within the site, but the Commonwealth War Graves Commission is not prepared to explore further. Went to a few other places in the district, including VC Corner Cemetery, where there is another two Australian / Commonwealth mass graves. They were simply edged with borders and a cross over the top of the two mass graves. Just further down the road, is the 'Cobbers' monument - the same as the one located along St Kilda road near the Shrine of Rememberance. Went back into Fromelles for a pit stop - i.e.: toilet break and a quick coffee. I think the shop owners were caught short a little as there had been another tour coach stop by just an hour ago. The coffee wasn't too bad, but I was surprised of the fact there wasn't any toilet paper lol! Not to worry anyway, as it was the only place we could stop by until lunch. Then off to Vimy Ridge for a packed lunch. The area around Vimy Ridge is still dotted with massive craters from bombs and the area had been well preserved. Sheep were grazing alonsgide and in the craters, which was surprising that they could walk along such deep areas (I am not a country person, as you can tell lol) and had a walk along the cemeted trenches. There is a Canadian monument that highlights the contribution made by the Candaians in that batt e. Off through Pozieres and stopped off at the cemetery. One of the few high walled cemeteries I have seen - Tyne Cot cemetery being partially high walled, being the other one. A very brief stop, a few snaps as it was bucketing down and our driver had to clock off his hours (not his fault, as he was being tracked by GPS) for the day. Moved off to Amiens and got into the hotel for a sit down meal with the tour group at about 7pm. Long day, but totally worth it!

Bruge - Monday 23 April

Went to Bruge today. A later start, which was nice, as it there had been a few early morning starts to get as much crammed in as possible and then we've been getting back quite late in the afternoon / evening. The town was nice to walk around, but I found it to be a bit too touristy for my liking - horse drawn carriages, canal rides and heaps of Belgium chocolate shops and shops that sold souvenirs. I didn't get up to much, went to eat in one of the cafes alongside the square and then had a little wander around and did a little bit of shopping. I bought some Birkenstocks for €25 (on sale), chocolate, lace and some other bits and pieces to send home. The postage ended up costing nearly €70 and nearly defeated the purpose of buying cheap shoes and odds and ends. A bit of a non event morning / early afternoon for me. Also, went to the Tyrench of Death, where the Belgium people fought in close proximity against the Germans. Nearby, there is a massive Peace Memorial, where it says words to the effect of 'No more war'. The structure promoted Belgium identity / nationalism and there were attempts in the early 1930's to destroy the monument. On the way back, one of the places we stopped at was Essex Farm, where John McCrae wrote the poem 'In Flanders' Fields'. I was a bit mesmerised by visiting the cemetery there as it was the first time I had seen soldiers that had died on 14th January, including a 15 year old boy. Also found another VC recipient. Saw the medical stations where John McCrae would have worked as a medical officer and was last on the bus. They must have been waiting a while as when I got on board, everyone on the bus started to clap and cheer me. A bit embarrassing. By I was happy to ham it up a bit for them.

Ypres and surrounds - Sunday 22 April

Another early start this morning. We were on this bus by 8:00 for an 8:15 departure to have a look around the Ypres Salient and surrounds.

First stop was Hooge, where we stopped off to look at trenches in, what is now, a picturesque coffee and tea gardens. Remnants of German trenches and other paraphanelia such as gas canisters, barbed wire, wrenches, shrapnel; etc are located throughout the gardens.

We then went off to Zonnebeke to the Passchendaele Museum. A bit cramped and crowded as there was the other tour group there, but there were some static displays of various European uniforms - French, Belgian, German - also African and US uniforms. Gas masks, canisters shrapnel, bombs and forms of entertainment for troops were also there. On the way out, there is a recreation of a dugout with mannequins in various scenarios - e.g.: dressing station or pumping water out - and an audio loop of bombs overhead. Gave some idea as to the noise and conditions experienced by troops fighting on the Western Front.

Went then onto Polygon Wood cemetery and had a walk through the woods themselves. It was over a 2km walk from the cemetery and along a gradual road where Australian and Germans fought. Along the way, in a clearing, I was ale to find some pieces of shrapnel to bring back to work. Will Davies, our tour Historian, was also able to find some more for me to bring back to the classroom. It needs to be cleaned with cola and scrubbed, but I think it will come out well. You could imagine that almost 100 years ago, these pieces of shrapnel were parts of bombs and would have made some serious whirring and whizzing noises as the flew past.

We then stopped off at a local cafe, where Johan, the local cafe owner gave a presentation on the discovery and recovery of the Zonnebeke Five - a group of Australian soldiers that were recovered when local road works were undertaken. He is quite passionate about history and also about Australia. Adorned along the walls of his cafe were Australian Flags, hats, coins and all sorts of things that tourists bring in and that he has brought back from when he visited one of the families of the five in Australia. It was nice to see a little corner of Australia, with sort of a jingoistic perspective, in a country far away.

Stopped at Tyne Cot Commonwealth military cemetery. This is the largest Commonwealth military cemetery in Europe. There are over 11,000 Commonwealth soldiers buried here; with over 8,000 unable to be identified. It is somewhat stirring and saddening to see the inscriptions on graves, "A Soldier of the Great War - Known Unto God", and that thousands of families across the world never knew where their son, brother, uncle or husband was buried. The photos I posted on my Facebook page do not give justice to the scale and enormity of the cemetery.

By then, I unfortunately, had a splitting headache; which had been festering since early that morning - I think it's the pillows I am using on the bed at the hotel as my neck has been quite stiff and sore. I missed out on the German cemetery we went to. From what I saw as we were driving sat, it is significantly different to the Commonwealth cemeteries, as there are plaques instead of headstones and black crosses are scattered throughout the site.

Last stop was Hill 60, site of the two large craters set off by the Australians. The sappers had been digging in silence for weeks underneath and on the day of the attack, 19 odd bombs were set off in the space of 30 seconds; creating two massive craters and destroying German lines and killing hundreds of soldiers. The Caterpiller Mine is rather picturesque now as water has collected, creating a small lake with wildlife; but there is the sobering thought that this crater is a massive war grave.

By then, it was nearing after 6:00pm and headed back to the hotel. A tired, long y - but very informative. I spent the evening haing dinner with the Tour Historian and a few other Historians and Tour Managers, it was a great evening of laughs and being able to talk about the tour and the various points in Histry we're interested in. Got back to the hotel well after 11:00pm and needed to flake out, but got to sleep well after 1:00am.

Menin Gate Service - Saturday 21 April

Went to the Menin Gate Service this evening. The road from Ypres / Ieper (I'll use Ypres from now on as it is the most common way to spell it when studying WWI history) is closed off at 8:00pm every night where the Menin Gate is located. A short memorial service is conducted, where the Last Post is played by the local Fire Brigade and The Ode is read out. Representatives of different groups then lay wreaths off to the side of the Gate. This ceremony has been happening every evening since the end of WWI. There was a break in evening services during WWII, but as soon as the war ended, the services spontaneously started again.

This evening, a group from the RAAF were there doing their catafalque and drill. They are currently in Belgium to recover a spitfire pilot's body - it is the responsibility of the relevant service to look after the body from the point of recovery until it is interred. So there was a massive crowd of several hundred people; many of whom are Australian.

I was near the front row, and had a reasonable view; apart from a really annoying group of people (I am not sure of their nationality), who constantly moved from side to side and were constantly talking throughout the whole service; even after the MC for the service had explicitly told the crowd that during the service it is forbidden to speak. A short, New Zealand woman next to me kept trying to hint to them to be quiet, but to no avail. Very disappointing...

The service was over quickly and I was impressed with how it iwas run and how emotional it is. I must go again and this time, hopefully, it will be easier to see.

Day 5 - Ypres - Saturday 21 April

Later start today. A bit more civilised start at 10am, with a several km walk hrough the town of Ypres. Went through Menin Gate - on my must see list - off to the sides of the gate and a walk through the park that adjoins Menin Gate with Lille Gate. Lille Gate links Ypres to the road onto Lille and is next to the Rampart Lille Cemetery. A pretty Commonwealth cemetery that sits by a lake. Started to rain as we were browsing through the cemetery, but I didn't mind.

Walked up the road and ended up in the main square. Sent off on our own for lunch. Luckily, the local markets were still on and I grabbed a bratwurst in a massive roll with onions and mustard from a van, which was delicious!!! Waed around the market, which was then closing, but saw the really nice clothes (which probably wouldn't fit, but wrong season anyway) and, the cheeses, meats, seafood, chickens and plants on sale.

More food by going to the local pub and eating beef carpaccio and was given additional chips. Then browsed the shops, buying some things for work and to send home - also got some more Chanel Coco Mademoiselle products - hair spritz and more dry oil, as we can't get them in Autralia. Followed that purchase with a Belguim waffle smothered in nutella, which I couldn't even eat a quarter of it as it was so rich!

Back to the hotel, time to get ready for a reception to meet the Mayor of Ypres. He gave us a few drinks and made a really nice speech underlining the importance of relationship between Belguim and Australia.

Will write a little more a bit later about the evening service at Menin Gate, as it's getting late and I am tired :)

Day 4 - Paris to Ypres - Friday 20 April

Long day! An early start with having to be up at 6:20am and on the coach by 8:00am. 12 hours and I was extremely tried by the end of it all. Spent most of the time talking with the woman next to me, who is close to my age and a current serving Air Force traffic controller in Townsville.

Stopped off first at the Moët and Chandon champagne cellars in Epernay, whee we were taken on a tour of the underground cellars and shown how they make those delightful bubble for both Moët & Chandon and also Dom Perignon. I had the opportunity to buy some bottles for later on, the prices were really cheap, but like with most things, it it the cost if either posting or bringing back in my luggage to be a problem.

Next stop was Reims, and had a lunch of Ham and Cheese baguette. Walked to the local Maccas to use the toilet, and bought a few of their Macarons (I haven't eaten any fast food since being away!). The toilet was an embarrassing experience, where I know I was talked about in rapid French afterwards! I then went to the local cathedral, also called Notre Dame, and this time went inside and had a quick wander around, before being herded into to bus.

We then went to Mont St Quentin, Peronne, one of the 2nd Battalion's major battles during the First World War. Walked around the German offensive line and saw where the AIF would have come up through the valley. There was a memorial to the 2nd Btn - one of the more unusual, as it is of an Australian solider, rather than the usual obelisk or plinth that can be found, both overseas and Australia. Within he surrounding area, there were quaint signs and some gates to a house with a kangaroo and emu on the front.

Brief pit stop near the Belguim border at a major service station. Amazed at the food available! Everything was so fresh, well prepared and presented. Not just some wilting sandwiches and hot pies we're used it, but roasts, flans, pastries, cheeses, meats, mousses, baguettes; etc.

Got into Ypres pretty late - well after 7:30pm. Enough time to drop the bags and go downstairs for a delicious roast beef meal - one of the best roasts I've ever had! :)

Day 3 - Paris - Thursday 19 April

Started off on the Battlefields tour today with a tour around Paris in a coach and with a local guide. The local guide's voice, and the enunciations, were a little grating, but she was quite informative. Saw most of the sights I saw yesterday - I don't think I could tire of constantly seeing them! We also stopped off for short breaks around the city - in particular at Les Invalides and the Bastille monument. Instead of the scheduled pit stop, I walked around the Bastille area and had a look around at the local market. Was so amazed and loved the smells of the fresh fruits and vegetables, in particular, the strawberries! The fruit and veg looks so fresh and there were heirloom tomatoes, duck eggs, live seafood on ice!

Ended up back in the Latin Quartier with the tour group for a 3 course lunch. Smoked salmon and salad, medium rare porterhouse steak and garlic potatoes and a coffee/chocolate mousse cake - that was so rich, I couldn't eat it all!

We then had some free time. This was the first afternoon, where I wasn't feeling jet-lagged, so I went back to Les Invalides and went into the Musee De L'Armee and saw Napoleon's Tomb. Massively ornate and just in awe! I then had a walk around the Musee and went into a Charles De Gualle exhibition, I was given an audio guide and headphones, but even though I asked for the anglais version, I have teheran francais version, so I wasn't able to experience the exhibition as I would have liked to. I still found it fascinating though. By that time I walked from Les Invalides and down and over the Pont Alexandre III, it was nearly 6pm.

Caught a taxi back to the hotel as I was feeling a little lazy and went into Montparnasse for dinner; where - David Dangerfield, you would be so proud of me!!! - I ordered my meal wholly and solely en fracais! The waiters were even pleased that I had tried and I had a few people from my tour group sitting bear by, saying that I had the waiters eating out of my hand lol! I am speaking a little more French now than I expected to, and have been able to order food and drink, get into a taxi, on the Metro and also into Museums without speaking much English!

Have to get back to my room now. It's after 10pm and I have to pack for an early start tomorrow as we're off out of Paris. First stop... A champagne cellar! :)

Day 2 - Paris - Wednesday 18 April

Today, I had a bit of a lie in and got up at about 9am. Ate breakfast; I have been surprising myself that I have been eating quite a fair bit the past few days!

I wanted to see the Du Bussey exhibition that is currently on at the Musee D'Orsay and travelled across via the Metro in the morning. By the time I arrived, it was after 11am and there was a massive queue that would have been well over an hour and a half long. I am normally patient, however, still feeling a bit tired from the jet lag, I decided that I wasn't going to wait that long, so I ended up catching a hop-on, hop-off bus and took in the local sights.

The bus ride was several hours long and I sat up on the upper deck most of the time, in the freezing cold. Saw the Arc De Triomphe, Place De La Concorde, Assemblee Nationale, The Louvre (not the inside), Place Vendome, Les Invalides and the Eiffel Tower; amongst other places. Stopped off at Notre Dame and walked back into the Latin Quartier and ended up at a Greek Restaraunt, where I had moussaka, dolmades and tzatiki.

Couldn't eat it all, but the owner and his son, kept asking me if I would like to join them in the evening for live music and dancing. The son (who was really good looking!) asked if I wanted to dance with him in the evening!!!! :) I would have probably gone back later in the evening (and another nap when I got back to the hotel before dinner!), but had commitments with my Battlefields tour group to meet for the first night's dinner at the hotel - which I ended up not eating much of the dinner provided as I was still stuffed from lunch earlier in the day. I ended up meeting people from the tour group - there are two buses, and whilst most of the people on the tour are a lot older, there are a few of us in our 30's. Met people from Perth, Cairns, Alice Springs, Darwin and Canberra.

Day 1 - Paris - Tuesday 17 April

Day 1

Today, I got up and ate a very full breakfast. Normally, I would have either an Up-And-Go, or do away and have nothing. This morning, I ate bacon, tomato, mushrooms, cereal, organise juice, grapefruit juice, coffee, bread and butter, 2 yoghurts and some croissants! The dining area of the hotel was very busy and seemed quite disorganised, and they didn't refill the Bain Maries that often. The place was also filled with a lot of Americans. I am trying to get used to the managerie of different languages around me, and at times, found it a little overwhelming.

I then went to the local Metro station. I am directly across the road from Montparnasse Bienvienue Station, which makes travel around Paris easy. I have been able to say en Francais that I would like a ticket, get on the right line and get off. It was only when I got off and outside the station that was the problem and got terribly lost several times, particularly in the Cite area.

I first went to Les Halles, which used to be one of the largest open food markets in Paris. I knew that it had moved, but wasn't too sure as to where. I ended up walking around Forum Les Halles for a while - which is a multi level underground shopping centre and went into a few shops I had heard of, but we don't have back in Australia; e.g.: Habitat.

I then wanted to go to Shakespeare & Co bookshop; which is one of the best bookshops in the world. The directions for the Metro from my Hotel Concierge was to take the Metro to the Cite and get off there. Luckily, it was the same line as Les Halles; the only problem was when I got off I couldn't find it anywhere near. I ended up getting some lunch - jambon de pays and some hot chocolate. By then it was bucketing down and I didn't have an umbrella with me, so I caught a taxi.

The taxi took me into the Latin Quartier and dumped me a long way from Shakespeare & Co, so I ended up walking down the main street, crossed the bridge and saw Notre Dame. Amazing!!!! I didn't end up going inside as I go in with one of my tour groups later on, but went down into the archeological crypt underneath and saw the Roman ruins of Paris from about c.300AD.

Getting out of the crypt and walking back across the bridge, I happened to stumble across Shakespeare & Co! Went inside and enjoyed the ambience, it was very crowded, and I didn't get to look at the books on sale properly, but I went upstairs to the library and sat for a while, listening to someone play the piano.

By then, I was wet, tired (jet lag) and a bit over being lost for so long. Saw the Fontaine Saint Michel and was fascinated by such a large fountain. Went back on the Metro from Saint Michel to the hotel early afternoon, about 3pm and was in bed by 4pm for afternoon nap! Tiring day, but worth it!

I am finally here!

Ive finally arrived in Paris earlier this afternoon! It's taken about 30+ odd hours to get here, but I think it was worth the wait!

I left Melbourne at 3:30pm Sunday afternoon and flew on the A380 with Qantas. After much apprehension flying on something that hasn't crashed yet (thanks Air Crash Investigations lol!), the flight wasn't too bad. I sat next to two engineers that wanted me to change seats with their mate who was in another exit row - normally I would probably acquiesce to such a reasonable request; however, this time I (politely though) told them that I had this particular seat chosen as being a bigger person, it's easier to be on the isle and that I also lean to the right when I sit - so I wasn't moving anywhere.

We flew to Singapore and had a 2 hour stopover, when in fact it became only a 1 hour stopover as the cleaners and the catering people were very quick. I didn't leave the terminal, but I felt the humidity from outside.

Got on the plane and the engineers had transited to another flight and was still seated in the same seat, but sat next to an elderly couple who were just about to travel for the next 7 months. They seemed pretty spritely, in comparison with myself, as they are about to embark on several walks around Wales and across England; the longest being for 3 weeks! Lucky for them, they slept quite a fair amount of the way from Singapore. I didn't sleep so well - being on an aisle and on the exit row; everyone who wanted to use the toilet stood in front of us and constantly tripped over my feet in the dark; waking me up.

The A380 is a massive plane! I was quite impressed with the size and the layout of the plane. I couldn't get upstairs as it was blocked off as it was Business and Premium Economy; but I walked through First on my way out of the plane at Heathrow and it looks very spiffy. Economy was pretty good, well, the exit row seats were good as there was the leg space, but if you're in the main rows, it is cramped. The good thing is that there are self service areas for drinks and food. I wasn't too crash hot on the food they served, pretty standard airplane food, and I didn't eat most of it anyway as a result.

I admit that as I was flying over Afghanistan (it was about 1030am Melbourne time), I did think of my colleagues starting back at work!

Entered Heathrow at 5:15am London time and had to transit terminals - after all the horror stories I've heard about Heathrow from various people, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. The only problem was having to wait around for nearly 5 hours until my British Airways flight to Paris arrived - If I had paid for the flight in cash originally, I would have got myself an earlier flight; but as I was using my FF points one way, that was the only option. Walked around the terminal for ages, finally bought my duty free perfume (FYI Aylin - Chanel was so cheap at Heathrow, I just didn't want to cart around a whole heap of things already and had to restrain myself from buying more lol!!!); and ate food and drank coffee.

The BA flight was quick, if a little terrifying, as it was a very old. I got talking to an Australian on board from Sydney, who used to live in Essendon and also met a lady and her son who are on the same Military History tour as me. She's also staying at the same hotel as i am, but we'll met up again on Wednesday night for dinner with the tour group. Charles De Gaulle Airport was very busy when I arrived, and apart from being questioned by some Israeli soldiers with machine guns as to whether I was going to Israel (I wasn't and had inadvertently walked too far to the Israel airline departures), it was easy to navigate.

Had a shower, got into some clean clothes (finally!) and had a bit of a walk around Montparnasse. I ended up in a bistro where I tried out some of my very limited French; the waiter was quite impressed and asked me where I was from; etc and we had quite a pleasant chat. I had the steak tartare and the waiter said that he was going to give me a surprise; which firstu came out in the form of ketchup and mustard, but ended up to be a plate of French fries (which I wasnt charged for!!!) and wanted my email address.

Just got back to my hotel, after a long and tiring few days, and have finally. Even able to connect to the wifi! Yay! Even though it's 6:30pm, think I'll go to bed now :)

1 day to go!

I think that I had better update my blog, considering there's only 1 day left for me here in Australia.

I've spent the past day or so checking, and rechecking my luggage. 20 HEAVY kilos of checked baggage and 6 kilos of hand luggage. I've been constantly on the phone to Qantas (as they've changed their luggage allowances in the last week) with some, well I think anyway, inane questions about my luggage and what I can / cannot take on the plane. I've also been having fights with Telstra over the phone about my iPad prepay 3G connection; with me saying to them they have a particular product available for sale online and "why can't I buy it(?)" and where I can use it within Europe. It's not the first time I've travelled o/s (and I travel domestic quite a bit), but I think I've been a little anal retentive this time around as there are a few stopovers in between Melbourne and Paris.

The past week has been a little bit of a flurry of getting documents, exchanging money, buying shirts and catching up with people to say goodbye for the next 2 months.

Each time I catch up with friends, I have been asked as to how I am feeling and whether I am excited or nervous about travelling by myself. I, actually, haven't given it much thought. I suppose there's a little bit of apprehension, a little bit of excitement and a little bit of complacency (which isn't good in itself!). I suppose, all in all, I am feeling that I am glad that everything has come together well...so far :p

Anyway, I keep thinking that this time tomorrow night, I'll be probably in Singapore - which is my first stopover - for about 2 hours. The next time I am able to update this blog properly will probably be in Paris! :D

See you in France!